Tuesday, October 7, 2008

15 Sept.

I neglected to mention how well I slept after the dinner at the Greek restaurant. My mind was going a mile a minute in anticipation of the coming week, so I decided to have some wine to help get to sleep. What I didn't know was that this restaurant serves complimentary ouzo, an anise flavored liqueur. So I had that, too ... and I slept very well that night!

We had our first leisurely breakfast at the Hotel Ambiente and it was delicious and ample. We enjoyed the view from our room and from the breakfast room as the ships passed by frequently. I'm sure the Weser River was at least as busy when Dad and Opa had their business in Brake.

At 11:30 we were going to Ovelgönne to the Jewish Cemetery, which is now a preserved historic site to meet the people I'd been emailing. If you open the link, you will not see much information because Ovelgönne is a prosperous small community with a few nice shops and a handwork museum, also very nice. We wandered around and found a very nice clothing shop which we were told draws many people from far and wide, with an large wedding department.

We went to the cemetery a little early and I was upset with myself because I had some stones to lay on the grave stones of my ancestors, but I left them in the USA. It is a very small cemetery and the oldest Weinberg is Hanna Weinberg, but I don't know anything about her. She could be the mother of Samuel, my great-grandfather, who is buried there along with his wife Marie (Cohn) and my Opa's first wife, Magda and their infant daughter.

Then Lesley came along. She was the translator and as we got acquainted she said, "I like your jacket. I have some of that Jinny Beyer fabric, too." I've been looking for quilt fabric, but couldn't find much, but meeting a quilter is much better.

Next came Ulla Bernhold and we were so glad to finally meet this author who is a so thoughtful, a joy to be around and a wealth of information. Next was the Burgermeister (mayor) of Ovelgönne, Thomas Brückmann. I was beginning to appreciate that my coming back to Germany to visit was not an ordinary occurrence.

Ulla brought some stones for us to put on our ancestors gravestones which she gleamed from a field in the region where Opa was born, north of Brake. We listened as Herr Brückmann told us a little of the more recent history of this cemetery. It seems a developer wanted to buy up the acreage around the cemetery to build a new housing area, but the dispute was settled in 2001 to leave the cemetery and a significant amount of surrounding land as it is in order to "preserve the open view of the cemetery." Behind me, there is a plaque that we couldn't read because it was in German and there was dew covered plexiglass over it, which told the history of the cemetery.

We drove into town where we had the most delicious lunch (dinner) at a hotel that was staffed by handicapped adults. Their cooking skills were not lacking. The table was beautifully set and the first course was a wedding soup. Then came the rouladen, red cabbage, parsley potatoes and cucumber salad ... just like Mom fixed! It was SO good. And for dessert? Rote Grütze! All the recipes I found for the rote grütze use cornstarch as a thickener, but my mother used tapioca and any of the fresh red fruits that were in season. All were excellent.

Then Herr Brückmann presented us with a framed translation of the plaque at the cemetery and a book about Ovelgönne. The hospitality shown us made me think, again, how special our visit was.

Here we all are: Pat, Lesley, Bernd, Herr Brückmann, me, Ulla & Chuck.

After our leisurely lunch we were off to the Landkreis Wesermarsch, which is like our county offices. I rode with Ulla and she was going over what we would be do in Oldenburg. Again, I was impressed with the amount of work Ulla had done to prepare for our visit and how unique this visit was. She said that my coming back was unusual. When we got settled in the office I got out my flash drive and transfered my copies of original documents that I thought might help her with future research to a computer. Meanwhile Bernd gave Ulla a copy of the German journal that Opa wrote. The one part of the journal that we could never prove was the part where Opa states he was a part of the town council. Now Ulla had dates and could look it up.

By 5:30 we were back at the hotel and starting to process all that we had seen, heard, eaten and experienced ... and it was only our first day! We did some of this during a walk where we went past the house I lived in. I did not recognize any of it.

Monday, October 6, 2008

14 September 2008 On to Brake

I was excited as well as apprehensive. All my life I've heard, "I'll NEVER go back!" And I understand Dad's feelings. I was a child and shielded from the realities of life at that time. My view of all the events have broadened even though I still do not have all the answers and probably never will be able to get them.

We left Göttingen and came to Brake. Our plan was to park the car at the Hotel Ambiente, leave our things in our room and then walk. We couldn't get to the hotel as there was a marathon going on past the hotel so we found a spot to park and then walked. I did not recognize anything until we started down Lindenstrasse and Bernd asked me if anything looked familiar. As I gazed around I started to say no, but then saw Opa's house. That's when the tears came. It looked the same ... except for the satellite dishes on the upper part of the house. The only other part I recognized in Brake was the Kaje where we often walked and watch the ships go by. I remember skipping there, but did not try that again on those lovely cobblestones. You'll notice that I used a cane on this trip.

And the race was over and we went to the hotel where there was a box from Ulla Bernhold. Pat and I were happy as could be when the first thing we saw was the box of Lindt chocolates, although that was not the most important item in the box, but what we needed at the time. There was also a book with a reference to our family from Werner Meiners, "Geschichte Der Juden In Wildeshausen" and an email saying how sorry he was that he would not be available while we were in Brake.

And then there was a thick file with an overview of our week as suggested by Ulla with so many options that we could accept or change as we wished. We did not change things as it seemed perfect to us. And it was! We will never be able to thank Frau Bernhold enough for all she arranged. The request for an autograph in her book has blossomed into the most wonderful adventure of my life.

By this time we were hungry and ate at a Greek restaurant where I could look out the window at Opa's house across the street. Then back to the hotel to prepare for the next day.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

On to Göttingen

Our next stop was Göttingen, where Clara's parents (Ruth and Jürgen) and Hannah "R" and her parents (Helga and Bernd) and Hannah's sister Nele live. As we rode into town I saw this smiling young lady on her bike waiting for the light to change beside us. Then Bernd turned his head and said, "There's Hannah!" So we followed her home. The cars behind us were not as happy as we were, but it was only a few blocks, and then they whizzed by.
Helga & Pat, Hannah & me, Nele (If you looked earlier, Nele was not showing. Her photo was hiding under my photo.)
Helga, Hannah and Nele made us feel SO welcomed. We felt like we had known them all our lives as Chuck & I got settled into our rooms and then we had apple kuchen, coffee, tea and gave out our gifts in their backyard. Hannah was also pleased with her quilt.

Next we were off to the Kind's where Bernd and Pat stayed and we all had dinner. We missed Paula, Clara's younger sister as she is in Quebec for a semester. Ruth and Jürgen are as comfortable to be with as Helga is. We haven't met Bernd R. yet as he was at a conference. Our dinner was lively with animated conversation. Here are Ruth, Pat, Helga, Hannah & me in the kitchen. And Ruth and Jürgen with their new iPod/phone carriers and luggage tags.

I happened to sit near Nele at dinner and am so impressed with her political awareness of world news. We loved that each time something was lost in translation Jürgen would either pull something up from Google or his hand held translator. The meal was delicious and topped off with plum cake, different than mine, but equally as good! Or was that the next day for coffee? We had several plum cakes while in Germany ... all good and each a little different! I love plum season!

And then the next day was also filled. First with a delicious breakfast that Helga prepared and Bernd R. came home so we chatted some more. Then off to Kind's where we walked to town and enjoyed the public market. Back to Kind's for coffee and treats and a tour of Göttingen. The University has produced 22 Nobel winners. Impressive. We could live in this town. In the evening we went to a concert with 4 saxophone players who played classical and popular tunes and then back to "R"'s for a light supper, topped off with "rote grutze", a red fruit pudding, conversation and much laughter.

The next day we met at Kind's for a long leisurely breakfast before we took off for Brake. As much as we were looking forward to the next part of our trip, we were reluctant to leave the "R"'s and "K"'s. We wished we had thought to stop there at the end of our trip to tell them about all our adventures, as they were such a huge part of our plans.
Here are the 2 Bernd's and all of us together.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

The Beginning ... and end.

First, the end. I knew we could afford this trip and wanted to go now because our health is still good. Today I decided it was time to pay bills and balance the check book. So I checked at the bank to see what the ATM charges/exchanges were. In Germany we took out 400.00€ and my statement read $567.86! And a few days later we took another 300.00€ to the tune of $422.89. Talk about sticker shock. Whew! But we'd do it again in a minute. It was the perfect time for us. Thanks to ALL who made this happen.

Bernd and Pat came from Tucson, AZ & Chuck and I came from Rochester NY to meet at Chicago, O'Hare for the second leg of our flight to fly to Frankfurt, Germany to start our adventure that has been in the planning stages for more than a year. The flight was uneventful, but long.

We rented the car that Pat arranged for and were off to Mannheim, south of Frankfurt. There we met Clara Kind, one of the 2 girls who translated our grandfather's journal, as she attends university there.

After checking into our hotel (there were the FEATHER BEDS!), Pat called Clara and we met at Clara's apartment. Thank goodness for GPS. What a delightful young adult Clara is. Chuck & I were so glad to finally meet her in person.

I wanted to do something special for these 2 girls that started this whole adventure for us, so I made a lap quilt for each of them. Clara was delighted with her green & yellow "Friendship Star" lap quilt and I certainly was delighted to make it for her! It was like Christmas for her as Pat & Bernd had gifts, too. It was fun for all of us to watch her enjoyment.

After a tour of Mannheim and the university we were off to dinner at Vapiano where we talked, ate and talked some more. Clara was very up to date on our politics and it was a delight to hear her opinions. By then we were exhausted and Clara had a party to go to. We told her to call us if it was any good and we'd join her. If she called, we slept through it.

The next morning Clara rode her bike over and met us for breakfast. Oh, did I miss those breakfasts. I know I could fix them here, but I'm not willing to get up early enough to go to the bakery for those fresh rolls and pastries every morning and the choice of cheeses, meats and fish would get moldy before I had time to finish them. So I indulged royally while I was in Germany each day. I am so sorry we did not have more time with Clara and certainly hope that we will meet again ... here or in Germany.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

We're Back

We are regrettably, but safely back home. It has been an amazing trip, which I will try to review over the next few weeks as I'm still processing. This may be a life long project.

Colleen asked me what quilting I was bringing and I hadn't thought to pack any. So I found a small project to tuck into a corner of the suitcase. And that's where it sat for the entire trip. I did get it out once, but never got to quilt.

The funniest thing happened when I handed my passport to the first officer in Frankfurt. She saw that I was born in Germany and asked me in German (which I understood), "How long have you been in America?" When I said 69 years she said in English, "Have a nice trip."

And I sent emails to the family when we were in Göttingen just to let them know we arrived, but that was the only time we had internet access. In the U. S. A. internet seems to be free at most hotels, but not in Germany ... 8 € for each 1/2 hour seemed too much for us. It was amusing to me to type on an Apple keyboard in Germany as the "y" & "z" keys are reversed and there are actual keys for ä, ë and ü, not the keystrokes I have to use.

And we have never walked so much. We ate very well and did not gain weight, which surprised us because we sure ate the most delicious baked goods and the much richer foods than we are used to eating ... real whipped cream and butter and rich breakfast/luncheon meats. Mmmmm!

Public transportation is marvelous in Germany. It probably is all over Europe, but Germany is where we experienced it. We had a Mercedes Benz with a GPS. What a great invention that is! The roads are well maintained. Regrettably, when we go back, we will have to go with someone under 70 as we can't rent a car, but will pack comfortable shoes and be knowledgeable about public transportation.

Here we are on our first night in Rottenberg. Claire, Pat ( my sister-in-law), Bernd (my brother) and Chuck. Even being together for 18 days we are still talking. You'd think we would run out of things to say, but we didn't. Pat is THE BEST organizer! She had lists and maps and booked the most wonderful, convenient accommodations at reasonable prices. They were clean ... some smaller rooms than others. The Fritz in Hamburg was the one I had doubts about as we rode past it several times trying to find a parking spot, but it was perfect with public transportation right across the street and lots of variety in eating establishments within walking distance.

Now it's back to laundry and wonderful memories. It's good to be home, but already I miss the feather beds. I'll add more as we sort out the photos and my journal.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Only 2 more days

I am so wired and excited I can hardly sit still. Chuck keeps laughing at me ... not with me. Earlier this week I couldn't sleep ... all these lists running through my head. Finally, after the second sleepless night I made a written list. Then I kept working at it and it is done. Slept like a baby the next night.

When I have a list to do I go like crazy, as my brother and sister-in-law will tell you. I wasn't sure which cell phone they were bringing & because I want that information, I called them ... right then. 10:30 Rochester time is only 7:30 AM their time ... they weren't awake, yet.

And I was on a quest for the perfect tote for the trip. So I made one to co-ordinate with my new jacket. Pockets galore. Perhaps a little too many, but those on the outside add to the decor. Had to do a dry run of my travel outfit. It will work.

Let's see, my hair is cut, the clothes are all ready for the suitcase, got a few Euros, notified the appropriate authorities, electronics are charged, cortisone shot in the knee works ... if we have more to do, I don't know what it is. We'll manage without it.

We have the use of a camcorder and practiced. Our neighbors dog looks good and so does my garden. No, you won't see them. Chuck apparently liked me pulling weeds & using the close or far view. :-( Piece of cake ... and the movie clips load onto my computer with ease!

And the dollar has a better rate! More shopping? Nah ... I don't need things, not that I might find a trinket or 2 to purchase.

Chuck has been checking our flights and they have gone on time for weeks. Yes, he is excited, too. So we are trying to wait until Wednesday, but waiting is SO HARD!

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

7 Days To Wait

Colleen, our eldest, asked me if I wanted her essay. I hadn't gotten around to asking her if I could use it so was glad she offered it.

Colleen wrote this as an assignment for school in 2004 and we thought it was accurate. Most of it is. In 2007 Bernd, my brother and his wife Pat went to Germany and they were given 2 books written in 1996 that looked into records of the Jews in the Wesermarch, the area where I was born. Bernd was born in Chicago. The italics within Colleen’s writings are my amendments. I ammended this on 4 May 2008.
Ist Denn Da Was Gewessen? by Ursula Bernhold & Almut Setje-Eilers
Juden In Der Wesermarsch 1933 - 1945 by Gerd Strachotta

Passage to Freedom: One Family’s Story By Colleen A. Davisson (photo at right)

The day came to a close and Claire, then 3 years old, headed off to bed. Well into the night, sleeping comfortably under her feather comforter, she was abruptly awakened by loud pounding at the door and rough, strange voices from the entry below. Fearful and alone in her room, she quietly crept out of bed and wedged herself behind the wardrobe set in an alcove of her bedroom. Once there, uncomfortable as it was, she stayed, soon to discover that she was stuck and could not move even if she wanted to.
After the commotion subsided and the strangers left Claire began to cry and call out for her ‘mutti.’ Thinking Claire had been asleep throughout the ordeal, Friedericke rushed to the bedroom to find her only child stuck between the wall and the large piece of furniture where she had sought refuge. Together they worked to ease Claire out and then snuggled in bed together for comfort.

I always thought this was what happened. And I was told that it was a dream I had a few days after Dad was picked up. I believe that is correct; it was a nightmare I had and I hid.
Claire did not yet know it, but this night would change the course of her life. Her wealthy, Jewish father, Berthold John Weinberg, had been rounded up on this November night and taken to the Sachenhausen concentration camp by the Nazi’s. History recalls this night as Kristallnächt, the night of shattered glass. All Claire remembers is that her father was gone and the family was unsure of what was to come.
What I had never been told was that Opa (paternal grandfather), Max Weinberg, was picked up and detained for a few days in a jail of some kind, and my mother and I were also picked up. We, luckily, were only detained a few hours.

About a month later, on December 14, 1938, Berthold returned to the home of his father, Max Weinberg, Claire’s grandfather. Claire recalls this moment vividly. She was brought her to her father who was with his wife and Max. “The three of them,” Claire says, “my mother, father and Opa just stood there embracing and sobbing. It was the first time in my life I had ever seen adults cry.” The family suspects a large sum of money, perhaps from the family business or relatives already safe in South America or the States, was exchanged for his release. To this day no one knows for sure how Berthold was released, just thankful that he was.

And now I know that we were released because Dad signed a paper to leave Germany and never return. He didn't. This information is in previous blog.

*******
Berthold Weinberg and Friedericke Gramms were married on May 21, 1933. An unconventional union of sorts, a common Lutheran country girl and a wealthy, upper class Jew, the two had married despite their families’ opposition. Nineteen months later on December 21, 1934 in Brake, Germany Claire was born. At six months of age it was determined that she had a cancerous growth on her left arm and would need the growth removed by amputation. While at the hospital awaiting the surgery, physician, Dr. Una overheard doctors discussing Claire’s case. He intervened and suggested they consider a newly approved treatment, radiation. They could, if need be, resort to amputation if the new treatment did not work. Claire was one of the first success stories for treating cancer with radiation and wears the burn scar on her still attached left forearm.


Photo of Claire with swollen left forearm before treatment.
*******

Earlier during the fall of 1938 the Weinberg family had begun making preparations to leave Germany. Letters of sponsorship to the American Counsul-General in Hamburg, Germany, from Claire’s uncle, Hans Weinberg, a physician practicing in the States and a dentist, Dr. Joseph Chapman, both of Chicago, Illinois had been received on their behalf. On the day before Berthold had been seized, November 8, 1938, the family received their Führungszeugnis, or Certificate of Good Standing, from the local police department in Brake. Months later, on February 2, 1939 Berthold presented himself to the Amerikanisches Generalkonsulat, American Consulate, in Hamburg, Germany, seeking visas for the family to travel to the States. Although Claire does not recall these months she pieced together the information from documents the family brought with them to the states.

Photo of Letter of Sponsorship for Weinberg family.
*******
Bundled in a winter coat, Claire and her mother head out the back door, across the yard, and into their neighbor’s house. This was a common occurrence. The girls would play for hours outside in the sandbox during the summer or with dolls in one house or the other. Today, however, was different. Shortly after arriving there was a knock on the door. Before the door was answered, Claire and her mother quickly but quietly headed to the attic. “I remember the panicked look on my mother’s face,” Claire said. At this point Claire knew it was important to do as she was told without any hesitation. For only a short time she and her mother cowered in the attic. At the door had been a salesperson and the family was not interested in whatever was being sold, nor did they want to open their house to a stranger. The salesman left and the remainder of the afternoon Claire and her friend played as they always did while their mothers visited…for the last time.

The next day, the day before the family left for America, Claire and her father were out walking and decided to stop in at their favorite bakery. As a special treat he told her she could have anything she wanted. Carefully scanning the delicacies, Claire decided on a chocolate treat, (some things never change!). “I picked out the chocolate goodie,” she recalls, “and the woman wouldn’t sell it to us. I could tell she was afraid.” Her father insisted and the woman went to the door, opened it and looked up and down the street to see if anyone was around. When she saw that no one was nearby she gave Claire the pastry, refused any money and apologetically asked that they leave immediately. “She could have been punished for just talking to us,” [because we were Jewish] Claire said.
********
While many Jews stayed in Germany, the Weinberg family decided it would be best to leave. “Our family lived in a small town and we were the only Jewish family (one of the few) in the community,” Claire said. “We didn’t have the support of others like us, saw what was happening and could legally leave Germany and enter the States with a sponsor.”
The family boarded a bus (I’ve since found out that we were driven to Hamburg by a family friend. And, yes, we “only” brought our suitcase with some possessions, but we bought back our belongings from the Germans and had them shipped to America.) and headed to Hamburg. They arrived and were ushered into a building to a room about the size of two school classrooms. Chairs bordered the perimeter.

“I have to go to the bathroom,” Claire said to her mother.

“No you don’t,” she replied insistently.

Persistent and oblivious to the uncomfortable surroundings Claire continued to pester her mother. Reluctantly, Claire’s mother approached the door to the room and knocked. “I thought that was dumb,” Claire recalls, “because I knew you knock to get into a place but not to leave.” A soldier carrying a large rifle answered the door and Friederike explained that her daughter had to use the bathroom.

“No I don’t,” Claire answered hiding behind her mother’s skirt frightened by the soldier’s weapon.

“Yes you do!” she insisted and quickly escorted her into the ‘badenzimmer’, bathroom. “From there on I became very quiet and did everything an adult told me,” Claire said.

Photo of Max Weinberg’s Passport with Third Reich Stamp

*Passport pictures for Berthold, Friederike and Claire Weinberg.

Sometime around mid-February (14th) the family boarded a ship (the USS Roosevelt, a cruise ship) from Hamburg and headed to the States. Their passage was one of comfort. All their belongings, those permitted, were boxed and shipped to the States. Claire and her parents slept in a state room while her Opa bunked in a dormitory with other single men. “Each morning a stewardess came and got me ready and delivered me to my Opa,” Claire states. “My parents spent the entire trip in their suite, retching.” Curiosity makes one wonder over what, anguish, seasickness or both.
*******
Holding tight to her Opa’s hand for fear of getting lost or falling into the ocean, Claire and Max strolled about the promenade deck of the ship eventually making their way into the dining room. Sitting at the table, Claire carefully placed the linen napkin in her lap as if it were a fancy skirt. Everyone around talked but Claire could not understand any of it. She only understood German and most of the passengers and crew spoke English. Ordering her liverwurst sandwich, the only food on the menu that translated to German, the two sat and discussed their plans for the day.
“Let’s head to the kitchen after lunch,” Opa suggested.
“Okay,” Claire agreed and after eating they headed out.
“A cook spoke to me and gave me an orange,” Claire recalls. “His language was gibberish to me. Opa tried to get me to say thank you, but in true stubborn child-like behavior, I kept my mouth shut ... not even a smile.”
********
The ten day trip was coming to a close. The seas had calmed. Friederike and Berthold dressed and joined Claire and Max on the deck of the ship. Foggy and cold, a crowd had gathered. There was an air of excitement. Friederike lifted Claire onto her shoulders.
“Can you see it?” she asked.
“Yes. Now you can put me down,” Claire answered afraid her weak mother would drop her. What was she supposed to have seen? All she saw were the heads of adults standing in front of her. Looking back Claire realizes that the ship had been passing the Statue of Liberty. “Today I realize what a thrill it was for them to see.”
*******
The Weinberg family was fortunate to be able to leave Germany when they did. Others were less fortunate. Max’s brother, Bernd Weinberg, (my brother was named after his Uncle Bernd) and sister-in-law, Reike, were both taken to a concentration camp during the war. Bernd died in the camp and ‘Tante Reike’ survived. She joined the family in the States after the war and sadly died shortly after arriving in Chicago. “I remember she had been a very happy person in Germany,” Claire recalls, “but when she came over she was so sad and sick.” Claire never saw her maternal grandparents again. They died shortly after the war of malnutrition on their family farm near Oldenburg, Germany.
Photo of Claire with maternal grandparents,
Anna and Ernst Gramms, January 1939.